Wegeler, Morschberg Riesling Kabinett Grosse Lage Rheingau 2022, [Pre-Arrival]

95 points James Suckling
"What a stunning nose this Kabinett has in which there’s a sensational interplay of delicate exotic fruit aromas and raciness. Stunning blood orange acidity is married to a wonderful succulence that creates a mind-expanding whole. Dangerously fresh finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap."

Vinous Reverie Notes
Per Vinous Media:
"The Deinhard family of Sekt fame founded both Weinguter, or estates that now constitute Weinguter Wegeler, one in the Rheingau in 1882 and one in the Mosel in 1902. In 2007, the famous Weingut Krone in Assmannshausen came on board and is still run separately. In March 2021, the 4th generation descendants of the Deinhards who ran Wegeler sold 80% of the estate to investors. They hired Richard Grosche, formerly of Reichsrat von Buhl (Pfalz) and Karthauserhof (Ruwer), as managing director in September 2021. Grosche says: “We are still a family-owned estate, but now it is five families rather than one.” The management retained both longstanding directors of the Mosel operation Norbert Breit, and Michael Burgdorf of the Rheingau operation, meaning Wegeler and Krone, thus ensuring continuity and preserving experience. “They were given more reins,” says Grosche and thus, several changes were made, like less sweetness in some Kabinetts and more spontaneous fermentations, some of them in new Stuckfasser for 2021. Six more new Stück followed in 2022, and Grosche says that more wood will be used in future years across the range. There also is a new wine: a GG from the Geisenheimer Morschberg. Wegeler owns 40 hectares in the Rheingau, 80% of these are classified as Grosse Lagen across 16 named sites. Making more of this brilliant portfolio is Grosche’s task and aspiration. Plantings are almost 100% Riesling for Wegeler – there is just half a hectare of Pinot Blanc that is leased to Weingut Krone. Grosche reports that in 2022 young vineyards often were not harvested at all – due to dry stress. This meant that much less of the Rudesheimer Schlossberg GG could be made, and there was no GG from the Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland at all as the wine did not reach the requisite must weight of 85° Oechlse (11.44% of potential alcohol). For the first time ever, there is no Spätlese from Berg Rottland. Only some Kabinett and base wine for Sekt was harvested before the rain. Wegeler finished harvest on 7 November with fully botrytised purple grapes destined for Auslese. “In the end, it ran off the press at 82° Oechsle [Auslese would have required 95° Oechsle.] The wine was made, then tasted in the spring and the 600 liters were sold off in bulk. That is the story of 2022,” Grosche says. During my visit, I tasted the 2022 estate and Erste Lagen Rieslings, as well as the 2021 GGs – these were excellent, especially the Geisenheimer Rothenberg GG, always a quiet star of the Rheingau. Readers should note that Wegeler also offers mature wines ex cellar from a well-stocked library of reserves."
The uppermost, steepest area in the Grosse Lage Klauserweg has long been close to Wegeler's hearts. This is where the grapes ripen best and retain their youthful acid structure well into October. At 150 meters, the slope slopes 40% towards the south. This location was first mentioned in 1292. Until the 1970s, this part of the Klauserweg was known as Morschberg, but was lost during land consolidation. After 50 years, the Wegeler winery applied for and received approval for this steep vineyard as an independent Grosse Lage. With over one hectare, Wegeler has the fillet of the fillet piece of Morschberg. The Riesling vines were planted in 1979 and are now the right age to present the finest Rheingau Riesling. Terroir: The subsoil consists of Taunus quartzite with a calcareous loess clay layer. Tasting Notes: Nashy pear, green apple and some anise on the nose. Wonderfully juicy on the palate with an animating play of sweetness and acidity, which creates a nice tension and thus also a great drinking flow. Food Pairing: Spicy food, cheese or dessert.