Wegeler, Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Grosse Lage Rheingau 2022, [Pre-Arrival]

94 points James Suckling
"A very succulent riesling Kabinett with a wide spectrum of stone fruits and a hint of exotic fruit, flowers and herbs. Very racy acidity beneath the juicy fruit. If only the natural grape sweetness was slightly lower this would rate even higher. Drink or hold. Screw cap."

93 points Vinous
"The 2022 Riesling Rüdesheimer Schlossberg Kabinett is a departure of sorts. Previously, the Schlossberg Kabinett used to have around 60-70g/L of residual sweetness; now, it is pitched at around 40g/L. This shines with the clarity of aromatic pear juice and lifted notes that hit the sinuses most seductively. There is lovely stoniness, gentle petrichor, intense red-green apple freshness and an orange peel scent. This is gorgeous, layered, serene and elegant. What satisfying balance and lasting freshness. The aromatic intensity is killer. (Sweet)."

Vinous Reverie Notes
Per Vinous Media:
"The Deinhard family of Sekt fame founded both Weinguter, or estates that now constitute Weinguter Wegeler, one in the Rheingau in 1882 and one in the Mosel in 1902. In 2007, the famous Weingut Krone in Assmannshausen came on board and is still run separately. In March 2021, the 4th generation descendants of the Deinhards who ran Wegeler sold 80% of the estate to investors. They hired Richard Grosche, formerly of Reichsrat von Buhl (Pfalz) and Karthauserhof (Ruwer), as managing director in September 2021. Grosche says: “We are still a family-owned estate, but now it is five families rather than one.” The management retained both longstanding directors of the Mosel operation Norbert Breit, and Michael Burgdorf of the Rheingau operation, meaning Wegeler and Krone, thus ensuring continuity and preserving experience. “They were given more reins,” says Grosche and thus, several changes were made, like less sweetness in some Kabinetts and more spontaneous fermentations, some of them in new Stuckfasser for 2021. Six more new Stück followed in 2022, and Grosche says that more wood will be used in future years across the range. There also is a new wine: a GG from the Geisenheimer Morschberg. Wegeler owns 40 hectares in the Rheingau, 80% of these are classified as Grosse Lagen across 16 named sites. Making more of this brilliant portfolio is Grosche’s task and aspiration. Plantings are almost 100% Riesling for Wegeler – there is just half a hectare of Pinot Blanc that is leased to Weingut Krone. Grosche reports that in 2022 young vineyards often were not harvested at all – due to dry stress. This meant that much less of the Rudesheimer Schlossberg GG could be made, and there was no GG from the Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland at all as the wine did not reach the requisite must weight of 85° Oechlse (11.44% of potential alcohol). For the first time ever, there is no Spätlese from Berg Rottland. Only some Kabinett and base wine for Sekt was harvested before the rain. Wegeler finished harvest on 7 November with fully botrytised purple grapes destined for Auslese. “In the end, it ran off the press at 82° Oechsle [Auslese would have required 95° Oechsle.] The wine was made, then tasted in the spring and the 600 liters were sold off in bulk. That is the story of 2022,” Grosche says. During my visit, I tasted the 2022 estate and Erste Lagen Rieslings, as well as the 2021 GGs – these were excellent, especially the Geisenheimer Rothenberg GG, always a quiet star of the Rheingau. Readers should note that Wegeler also offers mature wines ex cellar from a well-stocked library of reserves."
The steepest vineyard in the Rheingau takes its name from the castle ("Schloss") Ehrenfels, which was built around 1211. It is the most famous of the three Rheingau mountain locations, all of which are identified by the addition "Berg", and covers around 38.5 hectares. The soil here, which is heavily influenced by slate, is already a clear reference to the rocks found in the neighboring Middle Rhine. The Schlossberg Rieslings are often rather reserved when young, but over many years they can allow their fascinating mineral fruit to blossom into great complexity. Terroir: Taunus quartzite rich in skeletons with slate inlays, very stony. Tasting Notes: The wine has yellow stone fruit, some citrus, but also a hint of camomile flowers on the nose. With a wonderfully elegant sweetness and delicate and precise acidity, this Kabinett convinces on the palate. Very intense, very long-lasting. Food Pairing: spicy food, cheese or dessert.