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Nikolaihof, Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd Wachau 2014

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97 points Vinous
"In a departure from usual Nikolaihof practice – given that it had by then been filtered and assembled into tank – I was offered my first taste of this wine shortly before the initial, December 2017 bottling. The wine was exciting then, and when re-tasted repeatedly in the course of 2018 had only gained in stature. Moss, lemon zest, peach kernel and toasted grain on the nose put me in mind of a relatively austere white Burgundy. But that sense of kinship dims with the emergence of high-toned hints of lavender and mint, mouthwatering ocean breeze and a sappy, juicy abundance of fresh lime and white peach juiciness on the silken palate. There are also faint hints of kirsch and mothball such as one can encounter from time to time at this address and to whose volatility some tasters might object. The finish is transparent to a veritable carpet of mineral matter – albeit a levitating, vibrantly undulating one! Crushed stone, alkali, mineral salts and iodine combine with herbal and protein-rich flavors for something approximating a blend of oyster liquor and clam stock that set my salivary glands to palpitating. And now for the astonishing kicker: This remarkable stuff filled the largest cask in the Nikolaihof cellar, with a capacity of 12,000 liters! Half was bottled in 2017 and 2018; the rest will be held back – let’s hope eventually to inform a Vinothek offering. “The only sense in which this wine needed to be bottled,” noted Saahs, “was in order to avoid Vom Stein Smaragd temporarily dropping from our price list and to make room in the cellar. It wasn’t the phases of the moon calling the shots,” he added with a sly grin. (Re-tasted alongside, the corresponding 2013 showed at the upper end of my earlier projection. But despite issuing from one of the two finest Wachau vintages that it has been my privilege to taste as young wines, that 2013 doesn’t quite reach the complexity nor exhibit the clarity and energy of this 2014 – not for now, at least.)"

95 Points James Suckling
"An intensely minerally riesling that combines considerable power with a slim silhouette. Finely etched dried-pear and candied-lemon flavors echo through the long, subtle finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Demeter certified. Drink or hold. Screw cap."

94 Points Wine Enthusiast
"This wine's earth, straw and lifted lemon scents suggest evolution. The palate, on the other hand, is dewy and fresh, with pristine and pure lemon notes. Though edged with a beeswax-like quality, its central vein of bright lemon flavor radiates freshness. It's bone dry and light, with a lip-smacking, salty and long finish."

Vinous Reverie Notes
In the famous wine region of Austria, the Wachau is an old farm Nikolaihof , which is the oldest winery in Europe. It is documented that the wine was made here already in the V century. The building of the winery was built during the Roman Empire, and the cellar in which the wines are stored, was built more than 700 years ago. Preserved and used even the equipment of three hundred years ago. Vineyards farms are located in one of the most beautiful river landscapes in Europe. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the place of origin of some of the best white wines in the world. Its climate and geological conditions are ideal for the cultivation of white grapes. The breezes of the Danube region are favorable for the growth of vines of the Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, Gelber Muscateller, Neuburger and Gewurztraminer varieties. Today, the combination of traditions in combination with strict adherence to biodynamic principles underlies the production of Nikolaihof wines. The farm was one of the first in the world to receive the Deody biodynamic certificate confirming the conditions for strict control of all stages of wine production. This is a special concept of an approach to the careful and careful conduct of agricultural work, taking into account many natural features (moon phases, season) and concern for the purity and safety of the environment. As a result of this approach, wines are created that express the pure varietal character and properties of the terroir, as well as having a long storage potential.


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