92 Pts Wine & Spirits
"Chris and Andrea Mullineux search out old chenin blanc parcels for the backbone of this wine, adding small amounts of grenache blanc, clairette, viognier and semillon. The fruit from each parcel is whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented with ambient yeasts, then left on the lees until it’s gone through malolactic. This 2017 is still so young you can feel some of that lactic acid in the wine’s creamy richness, a milky, toasty note that brings to mind Comté cheese. Give it air and it turns toward fresh cream, complete with notes of wildflowers and grasses, and the fruit comes up—pale peach and tangy tangerine. If you open this now, decant it before pouring with something rich—like raclette. Better, however, to give it a few years in the cellar to lengthen out."
"The 2017 Old Vines White is predominantly Chenin Blanc from 40- to 65-year-old bush-vines. 65% Chenin Blanc, 13% Grenache Blanc, 10% Viognier, 10% Clairette Blanche and 2% Sémillon Gris. Fermentation is in barrel with a further 11 months in French oak barrels, of which 20% are new.
Honeyed start and then beeswax and yet lots of structure and acidity too. Great complexity. Really interesting and long. Unique! 17/20 points."
Top Wines of 2018
"I have yet to be disappointed by a vintage of this wine, Andrea Mullineux’s arresting, ageworthy oak-aged blend of the fruit of Swartland’s ancient vines, mainly Chenin Blanc. Such class. It ages well, too."