91 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
"The first from two single-vineyard Garnachas is the 2014 Labros, a plot in a slightly warmer and riper place in San Martín de Valdeiglesias where all their vineyards and winery are located. This is always their riper wine, reminiscent of a Southern Rhône, with aromas of wild herbs and even a touch of black olive. It's also meatier, with a fuller palate and some rustic tannins that would welcome some time in bottle and/or powerful food. 2,700 bottles were filled in March 2016, after a slightly longer élevage."
Vinous Reverie Notes
While not an official DO, the Sierra de Gredos is home to a group of young, passionate and innovative winemakers who are pushing the boundaries of viniculture in a region that has long been seen as a place for bulk wine to slack the thirst of nearby Madrid. Even in a country of mountains and high plateaux, and despite its proximity to the sun-baked capital, the Sierra de Gredos seems more alpine, more remote and more rugged than one would imagine this far south. It is the unique combination of high altitudes and low latitudes that defines the potential of Gredos and when you throw in weathered slate, granite and schist soils and add some varieties that are pushed to their limits in such an extreme environment, is it any surprise that the wines made here are so captivating, pure and expressive?
Bodega Marañones is located in the DO of Viños de Madrid in the subzone of San Martín de Valdeiglesias where the Sierra de Gredos meets the Sierra de Guadarrama. Their vineyards stretch from the steep hillsides at the base of the mountains down to gentler slopes near the valley floor – providing them with a variety of terroirs that capture a more Mediterranean expression of the Gredos. Helmed by Fernando Garcia, who together with Dani Landi, are the creative minds behind Comando G, Bodega Marañones is farmed organically and manually with the assistance of mules due to the steep slopes of their vineyards. The work in the vineyards is focused on prolonging the vegetative cycle so they are able to balance ripeness with acidity and tannin. The yields are low from 20-30 hl/ha for the Garnacha and 10-20 hl/ha for the Albillo.
Labros is the name of a stream that flows at the base of Dehesa, one of the terroirs that is farmed by Bodega Marañones. It also lends its name to a cuvée made from a sandy and gravelly portion of this terroir at an elevation on 650m. This is the warmest site at Bodega Marañones responsible for producing their most Mediterranean-styled Garnacha.