Kolonics, Harslevelu Somlo 2018

96 points Decanter
"Stupendous stuff. Somló is one of the few volcanic areas of Europe where you really can taste the lava, and Kolonics is the star producer. Its wines are famously austere, but this Hárslevelű is gentler – still pulsing with volcanic energy, but also honeyed, waxy, scented with lime leaf and rosemary, and something feral but friendly, like rabbit fur!"

Jancis Robinson
"Barrel aged.
Goat’s cheese and honey aromas, a little dusty, a little ashy, some sweet melon. So much more pliable and giving and extrovert than his Juhfark, Furmint and Olaszrizling. There’s a gently toasty, buttery base, like a billow of golden puff pastry, and over that, a lovely almost waxy stretchy texture. A little herbal: pressed wild flowers in beeswax with dried pears and tossed hay. Just gorgeous, and after all those stern wines, like coming in from the cold and warming your hands by the fire. GV *good value* 17/20 points. (TC)"

Vinous Reverie Notes
Karoly Kolonics is a 4th generation winemaker who grew up in nearby Devecser but spent his weekends and summers in Somlo. His grandparents were born and raised on the hill. His Somloi lineage goes back notably to his great grandparents who emigrated to the US before WWI. Once the war threatened Hungary, they mailed back as much money as possible. There was an issue with the postmaster and none of the money went to the family and the estate was lost to the Abbey. The family eventually got their land back. The labels are photos of the great grand parents from the late 1800s. Today, Kolonics farms about 9 hectares of Olaszrizling, Furmint, Juhfark and Harslevelu in thick basalt crumble soil. The area is also covered in chestnut and walnut trees at an altitude just above the frost line. No herbicides, pesticides, cover crops are cut by hand, and he uses orange oil and hand sprayed SO2 when needed. This vintage shows undeniable fidelity to Somlo. Tasting Notes: It’s like taking the hard salty mineral water from the natural springs on the hill and adding acidity, fruit, and spiced honey.