Homoky, Heteny Harslevelu/Furmint Tokaj 2019

Vinous Reverie Notes
Dorka represents yet another dynamic generation coming of age in Tokaj. She’s among the first to grow up in an established community of female mentors as well. Dorka is pushing the envelope in terms of low intervention winemaking, organic farming and extended skin macerations. Starting with just 1 hectare, her parent’s rules were simple: You must harvest it. You must make it. You must sell it. She has since increased to 3 hectares spread across the single vineyards (dulo) including Heteny. While 300+ years ago Tallya was one of the largest villages in Tokaj and arguably boasted the majority of 1st class sites, today it’s not nearly as developed as other villages. Nevertheless, it’s becoming an incubator for organic farming. Land is available for sale and a community of like minded growers is taking root and helping one another. Tallya is also generally windy and further from the Bodrog River than many other villages, but humidity (namely black rot) can still be an issue. While botrytis at the right time is welcomed, there’s a constant dance between having a lighter canopy to promote airflow and too little risking sunburn. This is especially the case when converting to organics. The Heteny Dulo, first mentioned in 1298, is in the southwest corner of Tallya and has a cooler east facing disposition. Mostly Rhyolite but with much more clay and a little bit of loess, this site throws a lot of acidity, even for Tokaj. The 2019 was pressed without destemming or crushing, fermented and aged in stainless steel, and bottled unfined/unfiltered. The acidity of the Furmint can be so rigid here, that it’s no wonder that Harslevelu is co-planted to help temper the overall character.