This oddball wine, which tastes like sea spray and is often poured directly in one’s mouth from a long-spouted pitcher called a porrón. Txakoli (CHOCK-o-lee) is typically feather-light, low-alcohol, and fizzy, and in the summer months the locals drink it like water. The 2015 G22 offers old-vine complexity, texture and a level of fruit and soil expression that is atypical of most Txakoli. Green apple core, salted lemon, white flowers and mango peel pop out of the glass. Generous medium body shows on the palate with notes of umami, nori seaweed, crushed rocks and lime blossom. With enough air this wine fills out with a delicate earthiness, complete with minerality and salty accents. We recommend decanting for 30 minutes, serving at cellar temperature of 50 degrees in all-purpose whites or large Bordeaux stems. Enjoy this wine now, or let it evolve for a few years in the bottle.
Ian Cauble, Master Sommelier
Spain’s Basque country is known for its salty, tangy Txakoli whites, which are typically meant more for refreshment, not contemplation. This version, from the Bizkaiko Txakolina appellation around Bilbão, delivers genuine depth, complexity, and intrigue.