"This wine gets more beautiful every time I taste it. Shakespeare’s Antony and Cleopatra comes to mind: ‘Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale her infinite variety: other women cloy the appetites they feed: but she makes hungry where most she satisfies.’ The nose has shifted to smoke and a bit of Chenin-like lanolin. Has the blood-red sweetness and tang of forced rhubarb. Forest honey and tiny white flowers. Smoked pears and a crescendo of beauty and flavour that brought a memory of a soloist singing in a cathedral, voice rising and filling the marble dome. So much glory and dignity and even a sense of worship. This wine brings tears to my eyes. 18/20 points. (TC)"
Vinous Reverie Notes
Importer: Driving towards the village of Mád, it’s impossible to miss the Öreg Király Dűlő. It’s the highest altitude, steepest hillside, and most distinctly terraced vineyard in Tokaj. First mentioned in 1285, a 1st class site from the 1737 Classification, it was tragically fallow from the 1960s until 2004. There’s also written evidence from 1664 that the iconic Rákóczi family, then the rulers of Transylvania, farmed this vineyard. Needless to say, this vineyard has pedigree, was never farmed industrially, and has been resurrected with organic farming and painstaking mending of the terraces. Vineyards: Carved into volcanic red clay and rhyolite-tuff, work began on resurrecting the terraces and replanting in 2003. Three years later, 10 hectares of stake trained vines and the terrace system were completely restored. While most of the site is dedicated to Furmint, there is also Hárslevelű, Sárga Muskotály, and Kövérszőlő. Farming is organic and due to the forest behind it, wild boars and starlings are the major threats to be managed. Tasting Notes: We are lucky to be offering this with 5 years of age on it. Furmint, like many other grapes sharing the same parentage (Riesling, Chardonnay etc…) need time to come together. 2015 was a warm and dry vintage. Not ideal for botrytis, but allowed for a lower disease pressure vintage and picking for ripeness. Acid is a given in Tokaj. It is immediately Tokaj – smoky, honeyed, spicy, aromatic without being perfumey, and weighty with a ton of brightness. Anyone into salty whites, high-toned Chenin, and “dry” Riesling will be really happy with this.